Aqua (H₂O’s Fancy Name), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Coconut-Derived Cleanser), Decyl Glucoside (Glucose-Derived Cleanser), Lauryl Glucoside (Glucose-Derived Cleanser), Glycol Distearate (Emollient), Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate (Coconut-Derived Cleanser), Coco Glucoside (Glucose-Derived Cleanser), Glyceryl Oleate (Natural Ester), Piroctone Olamine (Olamine Salt), Fragrance - Oatmeal (Phthalate-Free), Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein (For Hair Repair). Aqua/Water/Eau, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Chloride, Glycol Distearate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut/Noix De Coco) Oil, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Albumen, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut/Noix De Coco) Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate, Polyquaternium-22, Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, PEG-7 Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-39, Laureth-4, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Formic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Glycerin, Coconut Acid, Disodium Tetrapropenyl Succinate, Parfum/Fragrance. Apply generously to wet hair, massage into a lather through to ends, then rinse the hair thoroughly. After shampooing, follow with Nourishing+ Coconut Milk Conditioner for best results. And I just guessed on 5 lb batch since those are more common than my 2 1/2 lb batches but you could half the amount, if needed. You could also search ‘how much oatmeal to add to cold process soap’ or something like that.) One thing we hear a lot about our shampoo is how lovely the smell is. We couldn’t agree more. For this, we sourced a phthalate-free fragrant oil so you can have beautiful smelling hair without the sensitivity.

Compared to common inexpensive store-bought soaps, soap making isn’t more cost effective. If you compare to ready-made organic or other handmade soaps, then the playing field evens out. It’s also nice to know exactly what’s in your bar of soap – no mystery ingredients! But, overall, I don’t consider soap making a frugal hobby or past-time. There’s some investment up-front in getting the equipment and ingredients. I liken it to raising our own food though. It’s not really more cost effective for us to do so, but it’s leaps ahead in quality of anything we can buy in the store and we can be 100% sure of what we’re exposing our family to.You can use rose petals in most any soap recipe, when incorporated as an infused oil or infused liquid (tea). They won’t add scent or color to your soap, but some people feel the benefits remain in the soap. (I’m in the camp that believes they do too.) Because we make our products for our families, we have a strict ingredient philosophy that excludes ingredients like Parabens, Phenoxyethanol and penetration enhancers. Now though there are so many great resources out there and so many wonderful soap makers sharing their hard earned knowledge online.

When we first started making products, we used a blend of essentials oils to give them a lovely fragrance. But many people have severe reactions and allergies to them, even in small amounts. As a result, and because we make products for people with sensitive skin, we took them out of most products. Instead, we helped to develop a special kind of fragrant oil, whereby each component in it is less than the EU allergy threshold. This is how we can have a pleasant-smelling product without the reactions. The scents we use are proprietary blends from the company we get them from, and we’ve had no reactions since we made the switch. Also, of course, it is free from phthalates, which is the main concern in fragrances. Lye is a requirement when making homemade soap. It seems scary and dangerous, but I assure you – if you can safely and responsibly work with strong chemicals such as bleach and ammonia, then you can handle lye. ( Read more about that why you need lye to make soap HERE.) Since this is a milk-based recipe, you can infuse your milk with rose petals before using, if you’d like. You could also try making your soap at higher temperatures than I do. Warm your oils up to a higher temperature (about 100 to 110 degrees F perhaps) and maybe start with your milk slushy instead of frozen solid. The cold is intended to keep the milk from scorching and turning brown, but it’s better to have a slightly tan bar than one that won’t trace nicely for you. Step 8: In a stainless steel, heavy duty plastic, or enamel lined container/pot, combine the olive, coconut, and castor oil. (Remember, all measurements are by weight.) If it’s too solid to combine, briefly melt the coconut oil in a small saucepan until softened or liquified. Soap oils should be around 90 to 100degrees F.Silicone Column Mold (from BrambleBerry) – when using silicone, decrease the amount of liquid to 8 ounces and allow to stay in the mold a few extra days. You can also add 1 1/2 teaspoons sodium lactate (a natural salt solution from corn or beets) to the lye solution after the lye is completely dissolved, to make the soap batter firm up faster in the mold. Palm free soap recipes that are higher in olive oil, like this one, can take a little longer to set up and cure. Olive oil is a soft/hard oil. It starts off causing the soap to be on the softer side, but once it cures for an extended time, the bar will grow very hard, yet extremely gentle on your skin. You can reduce the amount of milk by an ounce or two, if you’d like to speed up the process. Reducing liquid is also helpful when using silicone molds. Directions to Make Milk Soap Then a third option is to reserve about 1 oz of the water from a recipe, using the rest of the water to make the lye solution. Mix the reserved 1 oz of water with 1 tablespoon of milk powder until very smooth. Once your soap reaches light trace, you can stir it in along with honey before pouring in the mold.

A hand mixer, like the first one, isn’t going to speed up soap trace like an immersion blender. With the immersion blender it should take no more than 10 minutes (maybe on the rare occasion 12 minutes) to reach trace, but a hand mixer on a high olive oil soap like this one is going to be s-l-o-w like stirring by hand. (Which would take hours.) I use whole milk – sometimes raw and sometimes pasteurized, since that’s what we drink, but you can use lower fat versions as well. When using milk substitutes, the less additives, the better. Milk Soap Video: Add the lye slowly, stirring constantly. It will take several minutes to do this – don’t rush this part. Make sure every bit of lye is dissolved. The milk might turn a bright yellow and smell a little weird. That’s okay and perfectly normal.A shampoo intended for oily hair has a higher concentration of cleansers than a dry hair shampoo because more cleaning is required. But you can achieve much the same result by just varying the amount of shampoo you use.

Our Milk Shampoo is one of our most popular products. It was originally made for a family member who had a scalp so itchy they went to bed with olive oil on their scalp and cling wrap around their head. It took us 6 months of trialing until we were able to banish the cling wrap to the kitchen for good.

We get this one a lot. It may seem odd since shampoos usually seem geared to a specific hair concern like dry, oily, coloured, damaged (need we go on?) etc. But in our opinion, we don’t think it’s needed if you make a good shampoo, and hair just needs to be washed. And if you look closely you might notice that there isn’t much difference in the ingredient listings anyway. It’s kind of like pet food made specifically for indoor pets and outdoor pets (which is actually a thing) – not sure what difference this would make. Usage rate is 1 tsp. of seeds in 16 oz. of oil to get a nice pale yellow. To get a darker orange color, use 4 tsp. in 32 oz. After infusing for a full week, use this oil as your base oil in your soap recipe to achieve the color desired.” My soap had cocoa butter and I used cream in it, but you could really add vanilla bean to any soap recipe, even the one in this post for milk soap. Another alternative is to reconstitute the powdered milk so it’s a liquid milk, freeze it and proceed with the recipe as normal, using the frozen milk to make your lye solution. Vanilla extract won’t work in soap making. It’s alcohol based (which isn’t usually recommended unless you’re doing advanced transparent soap recipes) and the scent burns completely off in the soap making process. It’s hard to get a vanilla scent in soap unless you use vanilla absolute (somewhat cost prohibitive) or vanilla fragrance oil. If you use anything with vanilla in it, be aware that it turns soap various shades of tan to dark brown and plan accordingly for that.