I am still testing if the dust-cap really reduce vibrations. Once I am sure I’ll post more info on that. This model has upgraded its component design that offers a more stable performance even at higher workloads. The circuit design is revamped and the capacitors are very high quality that they are likely to last years. This makes it a very good investment for your money as well. We liked the support for MOS drivers which further increases the performance manifolds. The connectivity includes a 2004 LCD, 12864 mainboard controls, and Ramps 1.4 as well. Functioning But nothing happened other that there was a shorting current of about 0.5 Amp. And none of the leds worked showing a working ATMega controller. So I started to measure the resistance on the inputs which was about 35 ohms. So was this resistance on the in- and output of Q4 which is a 7805 regulator. And on a good board this should be very high! And also on R25 and resistor R12. First the 5V regulator was suspected but turned out being okay, and neither was the AM1117 3.3V regulator defect. And although the resistance of the AM1117 between pins 1 and 3 measured also a low value, it was not causing any problem here as I found out later on. And also on Fan 2 connector pins it measured 35 ohm. By adding a mosfet you will bypass the motherboard heating and put way less “pressure” on it. I am really not an expert in electronics, but plenty of people say this is an essential upgrade which will make your 3d printer safer.

This is actually pretty easy, although I didn’t need to do it. Don’t worry if you find you do need to, you won’t hurt anything in discovering this. If these steps don’t work, just progress to the last section, ‘Burn a new bootloader using the Usbasp’. Preliminaries The stability of the frame is an issue with the Anet A8. However, you can easily get rid of this issue by 3D printing your very own front and rear frame brace. Once done, you will be able to make sure that your machine will run smoother and there would be less wobble of the axis. However, it does not have to be this way at all. Not when you can safely and easily enjoy the convenience of an auto-level sensor is. After all, manual calibration can take a pretty long time, and even if you are done, the very slightest imbalance can be the causative factor of immense frustration and lead to the mess up of your 3D build.

Even though I did not experience any problems with my connectors on a motherboard burning or anything similar, some people have. This is one of the preventive measures to make electronics on your A8 more secure. As far as working is concerned, we would say that it is best to use this as a precision extruder. If you want precise designs then this will yield some really good results. With A3d every other extruder will work, but since you have already got the printer for cheap, it is worth investing in this extruder to get the best value to performance factor. If you don’t want to compromise on the performance, then this is a recommended choice. Anet A8 Belt Upgrade 3D Printing GT2 Timing Belt This is why it can confidently be stated that the Anet 3D printer A8 kit has bought 3D prints to the common man. It has successfully ushered in a whole new era of affordability and quality even since FDM printing technology has been invented.

Having a second working mainboard is great because now we can test better open software versions like Marlin or SkyNet instead of using the original China made version that the A8 came with and which can be a very dangerous fire hazard if the extruder head gets separated from the temperature sensor. Causing to extremely overheating the extruder head when it comes of its head mounting. Starting fires which is extremely dangerous if the printer is printing for hours and no one is at home when this suddenly happens! And I noticed that there also exists a special single or dual Mosfet driver board that is another safe upgrade for this A8 3D printer.

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A word to the wise: These belt tensioner upgrades go well with a brace so as to give your Y-axis the required stability. However, you should be aware of the fact that belt tensioners can also add a lot of strain to the frame of your machine. A friend of mine who runs a shop, fixing and selling washing machines, tumble dryers and other kitchen appliances (except fixing refrigerators that require extra environment regulations), brought me his A8 ANET 3D printer to get it ready for use. It was one of those kits that can be bought now at an affordable price. He wants it up and running to be able to print out replacement parts, like the bearings of water motor pumps. And he already bought PLA, Nylon and ABS Rolls that he also brought in. The 3D printer was completely build but not calibrated and probably had not printed out anything yet. And he also brought a box that also contained a second ANET board that apparently was his first mainboard that by accident no longer was working after his brother did something wrong to it, and he needed to buy another mainboard. Also, there’s some mutterings in some of the other tutorials online about recalibrating your printer PID heater temperatures. Actually I found the defaults worked very well with my Anet A8 and so did not need to change them from what is specified in the configuration files. YMMV. Here, it is pertinent to note that A8 users, who are interested in printing with different materials that require very high temperatures, will need to tweak this kit a bit. If you are an ardent DIY fan, the Titan extruder would be the very best place to start customizing your kit. Another thing about MOSFETs is that it allows you to add a secondary POWER SUPPLY UNIT to your setup which generally reduces your time to almost half when you are heating your bed to the required temperatures. You can even have separate MOSFETs for the extruder and another one for the heated bed.